Anatomy of a good tee

First, the weight. A 140-gram tee looks great on day one and turns see-through by month three. We like 200-220 grams: cotton that softens with every wash but keeps its shape, cotton with a body to it.

Then the collar. The collar is where a tee tires first; the first to stretch, the first to ripple. A double seam, a slightly thicker rib, a small tape across the shoulder — not expensive, just caring.

Print is the contentious bit. We don't like raised, plasticky prints that shine; we like prints that sink into the fabric, a little faded, getting better as they age. Not a tee that looks new — a tee that ages with you.

Fit is personal. But we have one rule: no tee should trap you inside it. Let the shoulder drop a little, let the body breathe. Choose the size for your life, not your measurements.

Time handles the rest. You can't judge a good tee on day one; it has to go through a few washes before it becomes your favourite.